My First Football (ie. Soccer) Riot

What happens when torrential rains start during a soccer game and a couple thousand Nigerians want to be in the covered seating area holding a couple hundred people -- complete mayhem. Tonight we attended the FIFA U-17 World Cup match between Columbia and Iran. Near halftime the rains started. Everyone wanted to be under cover and the 'security' folks were easily overwhelmed to do much to prevent it. It was rather surreal to see a mass of people coming towards you in full flight.

Check out the video --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8R03cHiiqM

True to their colors, the Nigerians were quite polite as there was no pushing or shoving, and it was a 'nice chaos' if there is such a thing. Although cramped like canned sardines (Henry will appreciate this analogy as he packed sardines in his luggage as his emergency food), it actually became entertaining and we had a chance to talk to a lot of locals. All very nice and wanted to make sure we were fine. Most asked for my Facebook name so we could keep in touch -- those that have been nudging me to join the social networking bandwagon will appreciate the irony. It is surprising how prevalent FB (see, I am learning some of the lingo) is in the area with the Internet bandwidth being so low (basically like dial-up speeds of twelve years ago with worse quality). The other requests I got were for travel visas to come to the states like I carried them around to hand out with my business cards.

In another twist, our colleague Hugo (from Mexico) was interviewed by Columbian TV before the match. As near as we can tell, not being able to find any fans from Columbia they were happy to find a Spanish speaker.

For the record, the game ended in a soggy 0-0 tie.

Trek to Obudu

Last weekend's trek highlighted very polarizing observations and emotions. We traveled over stretches of patchy road conditions for 7 hours through rural Cross River State to travel from Calabar to Obudu Mountain. Our trip was possible thanks to the generosity of the governor and only manageable in 7 hours thanks to our military escort. As Tim pointed out, it didn't hurt that our driver has Formula 1 aspirations. Needless to say we didn't lose a game of road chicken the entire trip as the fourteen of us bounced off the ceiling of the 'can' also known as the team minivan.

As we traveled the countryside, the landscape changed from the coastal tropical setting, to lush countryside, then on to deep rain forest, and finally to a mountain setting above the clouds at 1800m. Obudu is an oasis of views, amenities, and relaxation. The lodging consists of Finnish design and imported materials as well as local stone cottages, the restaurant is well equipped with food and beverage, and the facility has a bar, steak house, tennis court, and nightly bonfire.

While we greatly appreciated seeing Obudu and the stops along the way, I think we are all still reconciling in our minds the contrast of the elegance of the resort versus the reality of life for many of the towns we passed on the way.

Afi Mountain

We visited an area called Afi Mountain that contains a canopy walk deep in the rainforest as well as a Drill Monkey and Chimpanzee reserve. There is a team that cares for the animals as well as provides tours. The Drill Monkey is a species that is only found in the Cross River State of Nigeria where we are located, eastern Cameroon, and Equatorial Guinea.

In the rainforest, the reserve has multiple groups or fenced in areas of different colonies of Drill Monkeys. Apparently they develop very structured colonies making it difficult to introduce new animals to the group. Even within groups, we saw a couple monkeys that we outcasted from the main pack who stood well off to the side. These monkeys took alpha-type actions that upset the balance of the community and were essentially temporarily exiled. They can re-enter the community later after showing appropriate contrition -- whatever that means in monkey society.

At one point, the guide whispered to the group that the electric fence in one colony wasn't turned on at the moment (based on the power availability I would be surprised if any were on). We all thought the whispering was comical as though the monkeys could understand us, but we went along with it just in case. The fence itself was a bit strange as we were in the middle of the jungle with the people a couple feet on one side of the fence and the monkeys a couple feet on the other side watching each other closely. It wasn't clear who was actually 'inside' the fence.

The canopy walk provides another interesting view into our Nigerian experience. After walking for 15 minutes on cable and walkway rigging high above the ground, the guide stopped and pointed out that we needed to turn around as a tree had fallen on the path ahead. He seemed genuinely surprised as though this had just happened. When we returned to our office the next day, they asked if the canopy walk had been repaired yet. We were curious how they knew about the tree as news doesn't exactly spread quickly. Apparently the tree fell many months ago and they lack the ability and/or funding to fix it -- the joke was on us and every other tourist. On some levels seems a little devious, but I think it more represents the approach they do what they can with what's availability and possible. Regardless, we still really enjoyed the walk.

Local Traffic Patrol

Here is the human version of the 'don't back up or your tires will be damaged.' The traffic patrol in Calabar position people at intersections or speedbumps to ensure the cars aren't overloaded (many are), the motorbikes are properly equipped (helmets), and drivers are obeying the traffic rules (outside of stopping at the intersection, not sure on this one). Sometimes a unit of people create a checkpoint in city at differing times and locations. If a driver resists stopping for the patrol, he uses the stick in his hand spiked with nails on your tires.

New Fish Bar

Found our new favorite fish bar last night. Essentially was like eating on somebody's back porch, but the tilapia was perfectly grilled and seasoned, inexpensive, good service, and timely food delivery (the biggest challenge here). Food find of the trip so far. I asked the server the name of the 'restaurant' and he shrugged his shoulders and gave me the address. Although the address wouldn't do you any good in finding it. The best description is go by the Mirage disco, turn left just past the car lot (ie. four cars for sale), watch out for craters on the dirt path (bring flashlight for the way home), and head to the orange-ish awning and smell of the grill.

Power is King

Power is a consistent challenge in Calabar. A newspaper article over the weekend indicated 78% of Nigerians believe the limited power capabilities is the #1 issue facing the country.


Our office has 3 options: electricity, compound generator, and a dedicated office generator. The traditional electricity supply at the office compound is inconsistent only working half the time at best. You learn to save yourr work a lot! The compound generator also has a generator, but it has limited fuel and only run in the evening for the folks staying on the lodge side. The office has procured a separate generator just for our project use. It can be run about 4 hrs a day to conserve fuel. Most days it is needed by lunch time at the latest as the office can get quite sticky and most of the battery operated products have died by then.

Around town you generally get used to the constant humm of generators and smell of the diesel exhaust. Yvonne won a dinner bet our first week when she actually predicted the power would fail 4 times during our dinner. You also need to understand you can't eat dinner in less than 2 hours so it was a good length of time. At our hotel the generator is on the same side as my room so I am used to the sequence of lights going out, hearing the beeps of some system indicating it lost power (maybe some lights switching to battery), and then hearing the generator fire up. Usually takes about 1 minute for the routine complete.

Seems to be little interest in alternative energy options although we have heard some mentions of solar thoughts. One hotel spends $17k a month on diesel to support hotel and restaurant -- everything with a dependence on power has a heavy budget allocation for gen fuel.

Busy Weekend

Here is the short digest.
Friday

• Invited to a party at the house of the Commissioner of the Environment -- very generous to entertain us.

Saturday

• Toured Watt Market -- exhausting array of stalls (fruit, meat, & fabric mostly)
• We attended two wedding receptions and an after party
• Celebrated the Indian Holiday of Diwali thanks to the effort of our colleague Abi with very good Indian food
• Checked out the Cal-a-Bar Bar at the Marina area which was fairly upscale

Sunday

• Used the morning to catch up on sleep, read, and exercise
• Took a post-lunch walk around town with Henry
• Toured the AquaVista fish farm where we had fresh Tilapia on the grill
• Team hangout at the hotel pool recharging for week two

Can't work all the time ....

Week 1 Wrap-up

Well week 1 is a wrap and has been an interesting experience. Most of the info I have shared so far has been cultural / travel experiences so figured I should share a little about the work side we can to do. Tim and I are working with an organization called TEMPO in Calabar. TEMPO - Tourist and Employment Opportunity - is intended to create the foundation for positioning Cross River State as a domestic business and leisure travel destination. Relative to much of Nigeria, Cross River has the most potential to be a travel locale based on the destinations in the area (Afi Mountain, Odubu Ranch, Agbokim Water Falls, and Tinapa Resort to name a few), the existing infrastructure in place (hotels and restaurants), and relative safety of the area. Henry and Abi from our larger team are working with Tinapa Resort to build the capabilities of this specific site. Tinapa has a hotel, movie studio (Nollywood), water park and free trade zone in a pretty park setting that is struggling to get momentum.

The goal of the TEMPO Project is to identify the needs in Cross River State to improve tourism products and services and provide business development services through technical assistance and a grant program. The TEMPO team and the project partners will:

• Conduct market demand research and inventories of tourism assets
• Propose industry standards for the tourism trade
• Provide training activity in those industry standards -- ie. help the food wait staff improve the service quality. The level of service here is terrible
• Implement a pilot promotion to support tourism product development that is targeted for next February
• Lay the foundation for a sustainable, independent Destination Management Organization (DMO)

Specifically the activities are working on are to create and contract a website to support the pilot promotion, to assist with a financial model to differentiate the temporary TEMPO program and long-term DMO, and lead workshop on tourism (specifically travel packaging) business model(s) and IT connections.

Here is a look at our work location. A bit crowded at the moment with several visitors and grantees in the space, but very functional. On the outside we have a nice view of the river which is just down the bluff.

Okay, that is the work side. On the other side of the experience, we visited the grocery store for the first time. Supermarket has no concept here as the power isn't consistent enough for proper refrigeration. You go to the grocery store for dry and packaged goods and a street-side stand for anything fresh - mostly fruit. I picked up a case of pineapple-orange juice, water, coffee, and cashew nuts. They serve the coffee here very, very weak (looks like tea) so I picked up some extra to give it a little boost. Unfortunately coffee isn't a common practice here so instant is the only option. The cashew nuts are salted, but a little bland. They are also the only bland food I have found so far -- everything seems to come with Nigerian pepper or chili pepper.

A couple glimpses in Calabar life:


Traffic light


View from the Hotel


Market

I need to grab a picture of a Nigerian road checkpoint. The traffic patrol position themselves at speed bumps looking for cars that are overloaded with people. If you don't stop for your ticket, the patrol is holding a homemade 2x4 loaded with nails to swing at your tickets.

The two mottos that we were told before and upon arrival seem to be holding true:
1) NEIN - Nothing is Easy In Nigeria
2) Everything works out

The second seems to take care of the first.

We have a packed weekend so I hope to have a good report on Monday.

Running

Henry and I went running in the streets of Calabar this morning -- my first outside exercise venture. Even at 7a, the heat and humid makes it quite difficult. The air also makes running a bit challenging due to the exhaust from the cars, motorbikes, and generators. We found a nice route through the homes near our hotel and then went down a main road towards the 'big flag'. Calabar claims to have the largest Nigerian flag which you can see from many areas of the city. I would call it a success purely from the view we didn't get lost. Plus Henry has done multiple marathons and is training for an ultra-marathon so I was happy to keep hi min site.

People seemed to be very curious and we received constant double-takes. Probably because we stand out culturally and also we are the only people I have seen running in the streets.

Our weekend schedule is quite busy, but we will have to see if we can explore new routes.

Motorbikes, Motorbikes

Motorbikes are the primary means of transportation as well as serve as 'taxis'. It is quite common for each motorbike to have 2-3 people and see the passengers carrying an assortment of items. Surprisingly the cars and bikes seem to get along quite well on the road without any clear order that is visible to me.

Nigerian School Bus

So far I have seen passengers holding:

• 12 foot ladder
• windows
• all kinds of goods diligently balanced on somebody's head
• bundle of conduit
• large roll of hose

Interesting method to deliver supplies to make a house -- seen just about everything but the kitchen sink so far.


The people of Calabar are amazingly creative at working with what's available.

Local Fish Grill

We have been treated to a great introduction to Nigerian cuisine. Anne, the local CDS leader, hosted a dinner for us that included a lot of local dishes: fish, plantains, goat, grasscutter (think big rabbit -- correction, think rat family), and rice.




Tonight we ventured to the local fish grill, NAF, where first you pick your fish fresh from the local area (700 Naira Tilapia for me - ~$4.50)




Not being able to pass up an opportunity to grill, I had to step into the 'kitchen' and try my hand. First time cooking fish over a wood grill
.

And the final product - very good meal. Nothing but bones left at the end.

First Day of School

In a strange way, that last few days have felt like the beginning of college. We arrived to meet up with a group we have never met before, got assigned a room not much different than a dorm, had several orientation meetings, did a fair amount of getting-to-know people socializing (plus Tim's birthday was cause to celebrate), and then the first of class begins.

Now the work begins...

Initial Observations

We arrived in Calabar after a couple long days of travel.

A couple initial observations:

We sat on the tarmac as the only plane at the airport waiting for more fuel for over an hour yesterday. The interesting part was there wasn't even a peep of frustration from anyone on the plane -- extremely patient culture. This would never happen in the states without. Even more impressive, the airline did a food snack service while we waited. Not sure if the Governor of Cross River State being on the plane had anything to do with it. Arik Airlines puts the american airlines to shame!

The cost of goods is higher than I expected. We understand power has a lot to do with this. There is a lack of consistent power available, so companies (like mobile phone operators) need significant investment in generators and diesel fuel to be able to operate. Those costs obviously get passed on to consumers.

Nigerian Literature

I have completed my quick pre-trip exploration Nigerian literature with a couple very interesting books. Achebe's 'Things Fall Apart' is widely considered the quintessential Nigerian literary work. It is a story about rapid change to traditional village life during the colonial era in Nigeria. 'Things Fall Apart' provides a great insight into traditional customs, religion, and reaction to a growing outside influence.

Chimamanda Adichie's 'Purple Hibsicus' is the story of one family's struggle with the country's political strife, the challenging relationships within the family, and religious tension spurred by the conflict of traditional beliefs with extreme Christian views. The story is narrated by the fifteen year old daughter of an affluent and respected business and community leader with an abusive temperament.

I recommend both books for those who can make the time.

1 Week to Go ...

Shots - Done! (arms feel like pin cushions the past month) I should be immune to just about everything for the next 10 years.

Packing - In progress (sort of).

Project Research - Lots of ideas and ready to tackle the challenges - more reading to do.

Family - Showing the kids the map and getting them ready for what to expect. Gonna miss everyone lots!

African Proverb

I read the following African proverb on a Twitter post this morning that I thought was a good mindset for the experience.

"if you want to run quickly run alone, if you want to be successful run slowly but together"

One week to go ....